【保存版】着物の柄(文様)の基礎知識|椿文・菊文・蒲公英文の意味と、“柄の活かし方”

[Preservation Edition] Basic Knowledge of Kimono Patterns (Designs) | Meanings of Camellia Pattern, Chrysanthemum Pattern, and Cattail Pattern, and "How to Utilize Patterns"

[Preservation Edition] Basic Knowledge of Kimono Patterns (Designs) | Meanings of Camellia Pattern, Chrysanthemum Pattern, and Cattail Pattern, and "How to Utilize Patterns"

【保存版】着物の柄(文様)の基礎知識|椿文・菊文・蒲公英文の意味と、“柄の活かし方”
公開日:2026年01月28日(水曜日)
最終更新日:2026年01月29日(木曜日)

Just looking at kimono patterns is enjoyable.
However, in reality, kimono patterns contain "seasonal feelings" and "wishes (good fortune)," and the more you know, the more interesting they become.

This article is not for teaching the manners of wearing a kimono.
Kigiku remakes kimonos into dresses and bags, creating forms that can be enjoyed in daily life. That’s why we want to respect the patterns left on the fabric and utilize them with an understanding of their meaning and background. From this “maker's perspective,” we will first introduce the basics of patterns and highlight floral patterns (camellia, chrysanthemum, and cattail).

 



What are patterns? Understanding the "classification" of kimono patterns changes how you see them.

The patterns of kimono are broadly organized into categories such as "geometric," "plants," "animals," "landscapes/nature," "objects," and "stories."
Additionally, as another classification,Auspicious patterns (patterns that bring good fortune), historical patterns (patterns derived from the culture of the Heian period aristocracy), Shosoin patterns, Korin patterns.it is sometimes discussed in terms of "types."

When you grasp this, upon seeing the pattern,
"This looks like a plant pattern."
"This might be a type of auspicious pattern."
Like this, the patterns become "readable."

 


 

This time, we focus on "flower patterns (grass and flower patterns)."

Among plant patterns, those based on grass and flowers are particularly numerous. It is said that the Japanese appreciation for the four seasons is reflected in the patterns of kimonos.

This time, among them, Kigiku's craftsmanship is also well-suited.

  • Camellia pattern (tsubakimon)

  • Chrysanthemum pattern (kikumon)

  • Dandelion pattern (tanpopomon)
    will be picked up.


 

Camellia pattern (tsubakimon) | A dignified presence. A flower that heralds the arrival of spring.

The camellia is a flower that has been cherished in Japan for a long time, and it is often used in patterns for kimonos and obi.
Camellia patterns have a wide range of expressions, and for example, they may be introduced as types of designs such as "snow-laden camellia," "branch camellia," and "Enshu camellia."

The charm of camellia patterns from the perspective of the creator.

  • The outlines of the flowers are clear, and even as a dress, the "pattern stands out."

  • The larger patterns are modern, while the intricate all-over designs come together elegantly.

  • It has a winter to spring atmosphere and looks great when paired with outerwear.

Camellia patterns, even with a limited number of colors, exhibit "strength" and "elegance," making them very easy to use when incorporated into everyday dresses.

 


 

Chrysanthemum pattern (きくもん) | The "chrysanthemum" of Kigiku. Auspicious patterns for longevity and warding off evil.

Chrysanthemums are representative flowers of autumn, and as a pattern,Longevity.They are also spoken of as auspicious patterns that have meanings of warding off evil.
Additionally, the connection between the Chrysanthemum Festival (September 9) and chrysanthemums (such as chrysanthemum sake) is famous, with a background of being cherished since ancient times.
The fact that chrysanthemums are also known as the imperial family's emblem is introduced as one reason why chrysanthemums have been treated as "noble flowers."

Furthermore, chrysanthemum patterns combine chrysanthemums with flowing water.Chrysanthemum water pattern.As seen, there are patterns that are linked to tradition and represent the joy of "longevity."

What I want to convey as the "chrysanthemum" of Kigiku.
The "chrysanthemum" in the name Kigiku is not only about visual beauty but also resonates well with such backgrounds (being passed down for a long time, warding off evil, wishing for health).
I feel that bringing the chrysanthemum patterns remaining in kimono fabric back into everyday life as dresses or bags is also an act that extends the meaning of the patterns.

 


 

Dandelion pattern (たんぽぽもん) | The brightness of spring fields. Delicacy and vitality.

Dandelions are patterned as flowers that brightly color the spring fields and are introduced as designs seen in Noh costumes and Kyogen costumes.
Additionally, there is an explanation that it is also called "Tsuzumigusa" (鼓草) and is sometimes expressed in combination with drums (tsuzumi).

In recent explanations of patterns, dandelions are also introduced as symbols ofvitality and hope, new beginnings.

The charm of dandelions from the perspective of the creator.

  • The fabric with small patterns scattered throughout feels light when made into a dress.

  • Since it has a strong spring vibe, incorporating it into bags and accessories adds a seasonal accent.

  • The "simple and bright" atmosphere pairs well with the subtlety of kimono fabric.

The dandelion pattern is more about "cuteness" and "lightness" than being flashy. Its strength lies in how easily it can be incorporated into everyday wear.

 


 

The meaning of patterns is not a "rule," but a "background." That's why creating works becomes enjoyable.

Up to this point, I have introduced the meanings and backgrounds of the camellia, chrysanthemum, and peony patterns, but the interpretation of patterns can vary in nuance depending on the era, region, and materials.
So at Kigiku, patterns are not seen as "rules that must be followed."The story that the fabric holds.I receive it as.

 


 

From the maker's perspective: what is important when utilizing patterns.

Finally, just a little about how to make the most of Kigiku's patterns.

  • Determining the "showcase" of the pattern.Deciding whether to place it on the chest, let it flow at the hem, or show it on the back.

  • Whitespace is also design.Not cramming everything in, but intentionally leaving plain areas.

  • Accessories are cute with "fragments of patterns."With bags and pouches, the charm stands out when part of the pattern is cut out.

  • Prioritizing unique "encounters."Even with the same chrysanthemum pattern, the colors, arrangement, and weaving expressions make it completely different.

When you understand the patterns, the designs that were just "cute" or "pretty" start to look even more beloved.
And if you could enjoy that pattern not just as a kimono, but also as a one-piece or bag in your daily life... that is the remake of Kigiku.

 

 

Kigiku